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Budget Hotel tips – Barcelona
Chic and Basic Ramblas funky reinterpretation of 1960s Barcelona opened last year in an unassuming period apartment block just off Las Ramblas. The big lobby is dominated by a genuine Seat 600 bubble car, and there’s a reception desk constructed from retro luggage; just as arresting is the white-on-white colour scheme of the billiards room and library. The hotel’s buzziest space is its bright dining room, which has floor-to-ceiling windows on three sides and a surprisingly peaceful pavement terrace. Breakfast is a traditional Catalan affair of charcuterie and cheeses, fresh fruit and yogurt; later in the day, neighbourhood regulars stop by for the good-value menu of chilled soups, grilled fish or Penedès duck, tapas and goldfish-bowl-sized G&Ts. The bedroom interiors pop in jellybean colours – apple, lemon and watermelon – but are otherwise fairly simple. The best have private terraces big enough for an afternoon snooze in the sun; others have small kitchens, should you fancy trawling La Boqueria food market for your supper.
At Casa Grazia the reception on the first floor of a six-storey building (the ground floor is home to chef Paco Pérez’s popular L’Eggs restaurant), with original oak parquet, pretty corniced ceilings and arched hallways.
The big sitting room is filled with battered leather sofas, floppy beanbags and chessboards; an open-plan kitchen produces excellent breakfasts of homemade jam, cakes and pastries, with Spanish classics such as paella and chicken al ajillo for supper. At night, the dining room hosts flamenco shows, poetry recitals and film screenings; by day, guests spill onto a terrace shaded by olive and lemon trees planted in vintage fire buckets and lit by strings of multicoloured carnival bulbs. Bedrooms range from dorms to deluxe suites with hot tubs; all have new, if tiny, bathrooms.
Hotel Primero Primear has a casual restaurant with oak floorboards, white-painted brick walls, crushed-velvet sofas and leather armchairs. Breakfast time is buzzy, with as many locals as guests helping themselves to dainty rolls stuffed with ham and cheese or smoked salmon, and the butteriest chocolate croissants. Evenings are more clubby, with folk stopping by for salads or platters of jamón ibérico and a glass of wine, and there’s a candle-lit terrace shaded by giant rubber trees leading to a large garden and plunge pool enclosed by thickets of perfumed jasmine. Unlike the rest of the hotel, the 30 bedrooms tend towards the sparse, with built-in wardrobes and smartly upholstered furniture. Best are the small, cottage-like spaces tucked under the exposed beams of the eaves, with exclusive access to a Mexican-inspired outdoor terrace.
Retro Home Barcelona is in a lesser-known part of the Eixample, close to the spectacular La Concepció market and excellent, off-radar restaurants such as the Mantequería Ravell, a secret dining room above a delicatessen on Carrer Aragó. Scandinavian furniture (a voluptuous green-felt sofa; an old snooker-table lamp hung over a 1970s ash dining table) adds retro cool. The bedrooms are decorated in geometric wallpaper and there are unique touches such as an enormous cast-iron safe converted into a wardrobe. The best have balconies overlooking the peaceful gardens of a convent. A traditional Catalan breakfast of pan con tomate (toasted bread rubbed with ripe tomatoes and drizzled in olive oil) is served in the popular little bar across the street.